CMAdventures

We spent 10 weeks in central Italy working our tails off for a professional chef, living on the local economy, visiting off-the-beaten-track cultural and culinary venues, and living our dream. Come along and explore the world of Casale Polegri and Chef Lorenzo, “The Farmer Chef.”

Umbria

The rolling hills of Umbria host vineyards and orchards under a warm central Italian sun.

Inhabited first by the ancient race known as the Umbri but later conquered by the Etruscans and then by the Romans, Umbria has always served as a breadbasket for coastal population centers to the north and south. Midway between Rome and Florence, and with Sienna and other cities nearby, Umbria shares a climate and geography with the more well-known province of Tuscany to the northwest. Dotted with hill towns, villages and small cities built on top of volcanic mesas for protection, and bisected by the river Tiber and its tributaries, Umbria has served as an important byway for commerce, communication, and invasion for eons. The fertile volcanic soil is excellent for growing wine grapes, olives, and wheat used in bread and pasta. Livestock farms supply fresh and cured meat producers and dairy products for cheese.

The Bucket List

Our Italian cooking adventure began when we retired in 2018.  We both had a passion for all things Italian having spent years living and visiting the Mediterranean during our Navy careers.  Our three-month post-retirement backpacking trip to Europe finished in the Umbrian hill town of Orvieto.  Caren had visited there years before and wanted me to experience this remarkable area midway between Rome and Florence.  While enjoying a glass of deep red local goodness in a small wine bar just off the cathedral square, we discussed our bucket-list desire to find a cooking school program for amateurs. We wanted to attend a non-credit (low stress) course while living on the local economy in a foreign country for up to six months.  At that moment a small group of Americans entered the bar.  We struck up a conversation and found out they were all professional chefs on a culinary and cultural tour.  When we mentioned our retirement dream, Chef Janice Brooks of Dallas said, “That’s wonderful. Y’all need to talk to tour guide, Chef Lorenzo.”

It turned out that the James Beard-recognized Lorenzo Polegri, the “Farmer Chef”, grew up on a family farm, Casa Segreta, south of Orvieto. In addition to managing a restaurant catering to international visitors to Umbria, he spends much of his off-season teaching Central Italian cooking at culinary schools and giving demonstrations, throughout the United States. His cooking, management and presentation skills resulted in invitations to represent Italian cooking at the United Nations and the White House. During the tourist season (Feb-Nov), he hosts graduating seniors from culinary schools allowing them to gain experience in a professional environment while learning the art of Umbrian-style country cooking.

Benvenuto!

Three years and a pandemic after our initial conversation, Chef Lorenzo met us at the Orvieto train station in early September. An effusive “Boungiorno” and hugs all around greeted us before Lorenzo drove us to our home-away-from-home for the next ten weeks, a third floor, walk-up apartment he had arranged for us in the village of Baschi, six miles from Orveito, and a one mile walk from his farm and restaurant. 

Much had changed since we first met. Lorenzo explained, “COVID hit Italy especially hard, forcing me to close Restaurant Zeppelin, in Orvieto. But it gave me the opportunity and the time to create a new business, Casale Polegri, in my house at Casa Segreta.” This farm consists of 25 acres of wine grapes and olive trees on a hilltop above Baschi. His mother lives in the family home and his son, Tommasso, manages the farm.  Grapes from four varietals of wine, two white and two red, grow on the sunny hilltop.  In addition, fields for growing wheat are leased by neighbors.  To his renovated stone house, Lorenzo added a commercial kitchen and covered patio dining area capable of preparing and hosting meals for more than 50 guests. In fair weather, visitors are treated to dining with spectacular views at outdoor tables overlooking the Tevere River Valley.

Our first day at “cooking school” began with a morning rendezvous at the pastry/pizza/coffee bar across the street from our apartment.  Lorenzo arrived to buy us cappuccino and pastry and to touch base with those we quickly came to recognize as “the regulars.”  This ritual was repeated a couple of times a week throughout our stay. Otherwise, we hiked up the steep road to Lorenzo’s house.  We often saw neighbors along the way who smiled and waved and others who invited us to meet their goats and cats or feed their chickens. 

Next: LIfe in Lorenzo’s Kitchen